Notes from the Road. No. 1, “The Power of Place.”

As we continue on Jane Hall’s well-documented journey through the 1930s, I’m reminded of a book I read many years ago by Winifred Gallagher, The Power of Place: How Our Surroundings Shape Our Thoughts, Emotions, and Actions. We last left Jane and her brother Dick Wick Hall, Jr. in a setting that was so different from what they were used to, I wonder how the sharp contrast between the wide-open West– especially Salome and Manhattan Beach– and New York City affected them. This is the first of a few posts that I will write occasionally when I visit places again that determined who they were.

MBHS 1920s Wool Bathing Suit

This past Sunday, March 25, my daughter Carlyn Maw and I headed from Pasadena to Manhattan Beach, California to follow Jane’s (her grandmother’s) trail for a day. First stop, the small cottage in Polliwog Park that is home to the Manhattan Beach Historical Society. President Steve Meisenholder, who has spent most of his life in the area, gave us a tour. In one of the back rooms we found (among other enticing artifacts) a vintage icebox, a stove, a washing machine and two wool bathing suits* of the sort that “little Jane” might have worn when she plunged alone into the ocean on a brisk March afternoon in 1928.

Our second destination was the town of Redondo Beach just a few miles away. Redondo Union High School is now spread out over 66 acres; its historic Sea Hawk athletic teams are still very much alive today!  But the Beaux Art auditorium that announced the campus when Jane and Dick were there exists only in yearbooks and photographs. Thanks to Therese Martinez and the Archives staff these are carefully preserved in the school Archives which has a new home. After driving around as much of the campus as possible on a soggy Sunday, we decided to wait out the torrential rains at a nearby Starbucks.  The relentless downpour outlasted us.. So we made our way back to Manhattan Beach over semi-flooded roads for an early (and terrific) dinner at Talia’s with Steve and Carlyn’s significant other, Tod Kurt.** The meal took on a special meaning because, as some of you regular readers may remember, the restaurant is in the building that was home  to Jane, Dick and their mother, Daysie, between 1927 and 1930.

Timeless Spirits — Three Pelicans off the Manhattan Beach Pier. March 25, 2012.

Finally at about six o’clock the sun broke through the clouds; the Manhattan Beach Pier (now a California State Landmark) became more inviting despite the chilly winds. Off the end of the pier beyond the Roundhouse seals glided through surface waves and Brown Pelicans became projectiles as they plunged into the Pacific with astonishing speed and accuracy to pick up their own evening meals. Some things do not change over time such as the view west over the vast expanse of the ocean. As three well-fed pelicans took off into the sky, I thought of Jane’s devotion to her mother and brother. “Now we are The Three” she wrote, three people who became inseparable as they struggled to survive without Dick Wick Hall just a few blocks from this pier. And Three who would soon become two orphaned adolescents faced with another American tragedy. How Daysie loved the seashore, while her husband was much more at home in the desert– the power of place had a big effect on their marriage.

Manhattan Beach Pier Looking East on a Damp March Evening in 2012

But the view back toward the east from the pier is far different from what it was when the Halls lived in sight of the ocean. The population has exploded from less than 2000 people when Jane’s career was launched to more than 34,000 today.* She arrived in New York City with an extraordinary resume. Glued to the pages of her scrapbook is proof that at 15 she was a writer: 51 published poems, 35 cooking columns, plus 18 stories, some quite long. And she saved 19 other clippings of her nonfiction– news articles, essays, editorials and even two book reviews. Most of them had been published in the Los Angeles Times, the Redondo Daily Breeze and Manhattan Beach papers.

So many editors had believed in Jane. She wanted to be a novelist and could have been a journalist. I thought of Dorothy Townsend who was only nine years younger than Jane. She died this month at the age of 88.  On March 21, the Los Angeles Times paid homage to her life as a “pioneer for female reporters” between 1954 and 1986. Like Jane, Dorothy was “funny and smart and she was one of the guys, and that was very hard to achieve back then,” according to one of her colleagues. So what would shape Jane’s world view now that she was about to live in the other Manhattan—the more famous, glittering one– and spend part of her time on her uncle’s farm in Virginia? Her options seemed unlimited but her aunt and uncle had their own priorities. Jane had been used to so much freedom. I wish we had known her when she could still hear the pelicans and the sea gulls from her bedroom at 1148 Manhattan Ave. Part Two of this chronicle– how her life was transformed by Manhattan, Virginia and ultimately by Hollywood– begins with the next post on April 15.

* The label clipped to this bathing suit at the MBHS reads: “Wool bathing suit for rent at Manhattan Beach bathhouse.  During the late 1920s & early 1930s, the same suits were used by both men and women.  It wasn’t until 1933 that men could take off the tank top on the beach.” MBHS figures put the 2000 population of the town at 33,852.

**Carlyn and Tod are both electronics experts and were recently featured on the Discovery Channel’s first program in their new series Unchained Reactions.

Comments welcome– please use the contact at the top of the page .

“We’ll Have Manhattan”

The Chrysler Building (Center) – Still Queen of the Skyline 1930

What relief they must have felt as Jane and Dick Hall finally embraced their aunt and uncle.  Randolph Hicks was a few inches taller than Rose with sympathetic grey eyes, a prominent nose and brown hair that had started to turn grey; his round glasses gave him a scholarly appearance, and his natural reserve must have made him seem quite different from their outspoken and unpredictable father. As the new family of four located a taxi (or possibly got into a waiting car), unfamiliar sights, sounds and smells announced a high-energy vertical world filled with traffic, construction and street vendors.

Their first destination was probably 70 East 77th Street where a gracious apartment waited. One direct route from the Hudson River pier to the Upper East Side with great appeal to Rose and especially to Jane would have taken them east on 23rd Street to the point at which Broadway intersects with Fifth Avenue. Let’s assume they turned left at the Flatiron Building to head north on Fifth (then a two-way street). Perhaps they slowed down as they approached 33rd Street to marvel at the thousands of men who worked at a breakneck pace to raise the Empire State Building’s steel frame beyond its 86th floor. Soon it would win the race to be the tallest building in the world, defeating the beautiful Art Deco Chrysler building which had only held that title for eleven months.

For years Jane had fantasized about Manhattan’s fashionable shops as she flipped through magazines to admire and to sketch the tall and slender models in advertisements. And now they passed B. Altman and Company,* Lord and Taylor and Saks Fifth Avenue. If they looked West on 49th Street, Jane and Dick caught another glimpse of the future. John D. Rockefeller, Jr. had just acquired the space to begin his massive building project much of which would be completed as Jane turned 18. The creation of Rockefeller Center provided welcome employment to more than 4000 construction workers whose lives had been turned upside down by a Depression that would become more devastating as Jane finished high school. But the seamier sides of New York – and there were plenty –were not what Rose and Randolph Hicks wanted their niece and nephew to think about. At least not yet.

Fifth Avenue at 59th Street Looking North in 1930

The Avenue began to change as they moved above 59th Street where Central Park on the left now provided pastoral views for the luxurious apartment houses across Fifth. Just at this juncture Rose would have pointed out famous hotels, the Plaza, the Sherry-Netherland, and the highly-anticipated Pierre that would open in three weeks on Sixtieth Street. It was next to Randolph’s home away from home, the Metropolitan Club. (The first cream- colored building on the right of the image.)** The number and scale as well as the elegance of these buildings all within a few blocks of each other was impressive even to two adolescents whose Redondo Beach Beaux-Arts high school had been quite grand as well. Soon they  reached their first stop and sampled life in a building that was much nicer than Jane had expected.

“We’ll turn Manhattan into an isle of joy” ……..Rodgers & Hart

Comments and questions welcome — Use the contact button.

*The B. Altman building became a New York landmark in 1985. No longer a store, it now provides offices for the New York Public Library and the City University of New York among others.

** I came across this photo of exactly the route described here on a website by searching for images of Fifth Avenue in 1930: http://stuffnobodycaresabout.com/2011/08/15/old-new-york-in-photos-8/